Unagi Kitaya — charcoal-grilled eel by Ise Jingu Geku, founded 1910, home of Ise Mabushi The Art of Hashi-yaki.

Unagi Kitaya is a restaurant devoted to eel, standing in Honmachi in the city of Ise, Mie Prefecture, about three minutes on foot from Ise Jingu Geku — the Outer Shrine. It was founded in 1910. The eel comes from Mikawa in Aichi Prefecture, is grilled over binchotan charcoal, and is finished with a sauce that has been maintained since the restaurant opened. There are 70 seats and a private car park for 10 cars. We do not accept seat reservations; seating is first-come, first-served.

Hashi-yaki is our way of grilling. No metal skewers are used — only long metal chopsticks, turning each eel over the coals by hand. Because the flesh is never pinned in place, it does not tighten: the skin crisps while the flesh stays soft. Every eel differs in thickness and fat, and this method lets the cook answer each one as it grills. Kitaya has worked this way since 1910.

Ise Mabushi is a rice bowl particular to this region. The sauce is folded through the white rice first, and the grilled eel is laid on top. Unlike Nagoya's hitsumabushi, no dashi broth is poured over it — you eat it as it arrives, with the sauce already in every grain. It is the dish Kitaya is known for.